Remai Modern

a contemporary art museum sitting right on the South Saskatchewan, all glass and clean lines with the water on one side. the permanent collection holds the largest group of Picasso linocuts anywhere in the world, and the upper galleries rotate ambitious shows through the year. there is a riverside restaurant for a slow lunch, admission is by donation, and late nights run Thursday and Friday evenings. an hour gets you the highlights, a whole afternoon if you let yourself linger.